Another in the series of posts about what we’ve seen change in the last ten years in menswear.
Good news, for those of you still wearing trousers, we’ve solved your problem.
Skinny jeans. They sat low on your hips, or even a bit lower than that, and hugged your thighs and calves. Kids loved them.
When the kids who grew up in skinny jeans decided to wear suits, they wanted the slim cuts that they were used to. Over the next ten years the skinny suit movement influenced everything in menswear. Pants, shirts and jackets were all cut to be slim and tight. And the 20-somethings and the odd 30-year-old looked great in them.
Everybody else? Not necessarily. But everybody wants to look stylish. So clothiers began to trim out excess fabric. Especially in trousers.
The best cut today borrows from the body-conscious silhouettes, without being skinny.
Today’s trouser is a flat front, single-or-double (yep, they’re back) pleat that is cut trimmer through the thigh and seat, and has a tapered leg that comes to rest just at the top of your shoe, with little to no break. As far as waistband position, our youngest clients continue to wear their trousers on their hips they way they do jeans. We have noticed that even those clients have been moving the waistband a little farther north. Still comfortable, plays better with the coat, and stays stylish.
Details like London side-tabs, DAKs waists, and wider waistbands have become very popular, too and are subtle updates that custom trousers can offer.
To cuff or not? Totally up to you. The rule of thumb says that cuffs are less formal (neither the Tuxedo, nor the Tailcoat trouser has a cuff.) Cuffs always look better with pleats as the added weight at the bottom helps keep the pleat straight.
So don’t worry if you can’t find what you’re looking for, we here at Leviner Wood are still making custom trousers for the men who wear them.