One of these days we’re going to have to change our logo. We’ve been happily making you clothing for close to thirty years now here at Leviner Wood, and this September will mark ten years of bringing you our blog and e-newsletter! That’s a lot of insight into our world.
So we thought it might be a fine time to reflect on what’s changed in menswear. What makes a suit looked dated today?
The last ten years have seen great leaps in men’s fashions. in 2009, requests for a two-button, natural shouldered suit were… nil. Everyone was wearing three-buttons. High-roll three buttons at that! Trousers were double-pleated. Shoulders were built out and drape was built into the chest. Armholes and sleeves were generous, to accommodate the Brooks Brothers like 12″+ shirt-waists. Roomy, was thought to be the key to comfort. Thought to be.
While the pendulum has swung far too far in the opposite direction in our opinion (any tighter and we’ll have to start cutting Spandex or Neoprene suits gentlemen….), fashion has given us the tailored suit, which, when cut correctly is very flattering on the majority of our clientele.
Today we are building made-to-measure custom clothing that shares most of the same characteristics that used to be found only on truly bespoke garments. From the Italians we have learned to take excess fabric out of the chest for a cleaner look and the thigh for a trimmer trouser (even in a pleated model!) The British have given us waist suppression and a higher syce (armhole) which makes the suit coat look fantastic and move with us instead of letting excess cloth in our way. That also means that our shirts have taken on a trimmer cut to fit better under our tailored jackets.
Over the next couple of posts we’ll go into what we see as the best trends for the modern man to emulate.
Next up: what should your suit coat look like in 2019.