Blame it on the Italians. The short coat that doesn’t cover the seat of your trousers, that is. It was purely functional. And it’s nothing new.
Rewind 60 years.
After WWII, there just wasn’t that much to go around in Italy. Especially when it came to fuel. Enter the Vespa and Lambretta scooters — transportation for the everyman, everywhere — and with it a new style of suit coat that wouldn’t get in the way when you rode: the “bumfreezer,” as the British Mods called it.
The purpose of proportion in cutting a suit is to lengthen or shorten your legs and/or torso to make you look your best. A jacket or coat should also cover the seat of your trousers and button at your natural waist. You’ve got 3/4″ to go one way or the other as suits your style and physique. NOT 2 1/2″. Symmetry is universally recognized as a key component of being found attractive, after all.
Tailored, not skinny, and cut in proportion to the figure, a modern man looks his best when his clothing fits correctly. Caveat Emptor. Or put your trust in the experienced eye of your tailor at Leviner Wood.