It is one of the most famous suits in movie history. (There were actually six of them made for the production.) Worn by one of the giants of the screen, the grey-blue glen plaid business suit has achieved iconic status in the sartorial world. There is even controversy surrounding it. Some claim its origins are English, Kilgour, French to be exact; and others say that at least one of the suits was made by Quintino’s of Beverly Hills.
Regardless, wearing this near mythic fabrication is as close as any us will get to being Cary Grant without donning a tuxedo.
It is a riff on the No.1 Sack Suit, made by Brooks Brothers and so very popular at the time. Cary Grant wouldn’t wear a sack.
No darts, that stayed the same, but the shoulder is anything but natural. Slightly roped and padded, built out to compliment his huge head and neck with a high but wide armhole, the suit hugs his neck in every action scene. The lapel must be 3 1/4″ to 3 1/2″ wide.
The trousers are double forward pleat, cut high and side strapped with one back right pocket and deep cuffs.
The coat is ventless, with besom pockets (no flaps) and a 3/2 roll (three buttons, rolled to the second).This suit is all business. Which is why I chose to commission it for The Icon Collection through my tailor, Leviner Wood. It took us six months just to find the perfect shade of cloth.